Questions, answered

A hollow plasterboard wall on its own is not designed to carry a television. The load must reach the timber or metal studs behind it, or solid masonry. Specialist plasterboard anchors exist for very light loads, but for any normal TV you should fix into the structure, not the board.

Aim to put the centre of the screen on your eye line when you are seated in your usual spot. In a typical living room that places the screen centre around 105–115 cm from the floor. Mounting higher almost always means a tilting bracket to angle the picture back toward you.

VESA is the standard spacing of the four threaded holes on the back of your TV, measured in millimetres — 200×200 or 400×400, for example. Your bracket must list a VESA range that includes your screen so the arms line up with the holes.

Low-voltage cables like HDMI can usually be routed in-wall. Mains power is different: running flex inside a wall often must comply with local wiring regulations and may need a proper in-wall rated outlet fitted by a qualified electrician. When in doubt, keep power on the surface or ask a professional.

On a stud-and-plasterboard wall, yes. The bracket should bolt into at least two studs so the load sits on solid timber. Use a stud detector to confirm positions, then mark and drill into the centre of each stud.

Every bracket states a maximum weight and a screen-size range. Find your TV weight in its manual or specification sheet and make sure it sits comfortably below the bracket maximum — leave headroom rather than fitting right at the limit.

It can work, but heat and height both matter. Make sure the surface temperature above the fire stays within the TV manufacturer limits, and use a tilting or pull-down bracket so you are not staring up at a steep angle for hours.

Call a pro if the wall material is uncertain, the TV is large or heavy, mains wiring needs to move, or you are not confident the fixings will hold. A sound install is far cheaper than a fallen screen.